"Hollow to hem" is a measurement used in the garment industry, particularly in pattern making and sewing, to specify the length of a garment from the hollow of the back (the deepest part of the curve of the spine) to the hemline. It's a crucial measurement for accurately creating well-fitting garments, especially those that are fitted or follow the body's natural curves. Understanding this measurement is key for both professional tailors and enthusiastic home sewers alike.
Why is Hollow to Hem Important?
Accurately determining the hollow-to-hem measurement ensures the garment falls correctly. An incorrect measurement can result in a garment that's too short, too long, or uneven. This is particularly critical for garments such as dresses, skirts, coats, and jackets, where the length significantly impacts the overall silhouette and fit.
The importance of this measurement lies in its ability to:
- Ensure Proper Length: Provides a precise measurement to achieve the desired length from the back.
- Account for Body Curvature: Specifically takes into consideration the natural curve of the spine, ensuring a consistent length despite the body’s shape.
- Prevent Ill-Fitting Garments: Eliminates common fitting problems like a garment pulling or bunching in the back due to inaccurate length.
- Achieve a Professional Finish: Results in a polished and well-fitting garment, indicative of quality construction.
How to Measure Hollow to Hem
Measuring hollow to hem requires precision and the right tools. Here's a step-by-step guide:
- Find the Hollow: Locate the hollow of the back by feeling for the deepest part of the curve of your spine. This point is usually just below the shoulder blades.
- Use a Measuring Tape: Hold the measuring tape firmly at the hollow point.
- Extend to the Hemline: Extend the measuring tape down to where you want the hemline to fall (keeping the tape straight and snug against the body).
- Record the Measurement: Note down the measurement in inches or centimeters. It’s helpful to record multiple measurements and use the average to ensure accuracy.
Remember to wear the undergarments you intend to wear with the finished garment to account for their thickness.
What Other Measurements are Important?
While hollow to hem is essential, it’s just one piece of the puzzle. Accurate garment construction necessitates additional measurements, such as:
- Full Back Width: The width across the back at the widest point.
- Shoulder Width: The measurement from one shoulder point to the other.
- Chest Circumference: The measurement around the fullest part of the chest.
- Waist Circumference: The measurement around the natural waistline.
- Hip Circumference: The measurement around the fullest part of the hips.
These measurements, along with hollow to hem, contribute to creating professional-looking and well-fitting clothes.
How Does Hollow to Hem Differ From Other Length Measurements?
Hollow to hem differs from other length measurements like "shoulder to hem" or "nape of neck to hem" because it specifically accounts for the curvature of the back. Other measurements might neglect this curve, leading to inaccuracies, especially in fitted garments. Using hollow to hem ensures a consistent and proper length from the back, regardless of individual body differences.
This detailed understanding of hollow to hem empowers both professional seamstresses and home sewers to craft accurately sized and well-fitting garments. Remember to always double-check your measurements to avoid common fitting issues.
